Exmoor has nearly 4000 known archaeological sites, and more discoveries are being made. These sites represent some 8000 years of human activity on Exmoor. Together they contribute to Exmoor's distinctiveness and provide a unique insight into how Exmoor has been shaped by human hands. They are a valuable, precious and irreplaceable part of Exmoor.

INTRODUCTION TO EXMOOR'S ARCHAEOLOGY

The earliest remains date from the late Mesolithic (8000-4000 BC), and comprise small flint implements called microliths. The first settled communities built a range of monuments and Exmoor is especially rich in prehistoric standing stones as well as nearly 400 burial mounds. Prehistoric hut circles and field systems can also be found on the moors. These sites form a remarkable group dating from the Neolithic (4000-2000BC) and Bronze Age (2000-700BC). The later prehistoric period is characterised by small settlements which archaeologists term `hillslope enclosures', and hillforts. Although none of these have been excavated they are thought to date from the Iron Age. Roman activity on Exmoor is represented by two fortlets on the coast at Old Burrow and Martinhoe, whilst Exmoor is ringed by Roman forts on its southern side. Recent work is showing that the Romans exploited Exmoor’s iron deposits as well.

The evidence for post-Roman Exmoor is several inscribed stones (the Culbone Stone and the Caractacus Stone on Winsford Hill for examples), some early Christian church dedications and some early place-names. Exmoor has three Norman castles one of which, Dunster, was rebuilt in stone. Two priories were founded in the medieval period at Dunster and Barlynch. The settlement pattern of farms, hamlets and villages was largely established by the end of the 13th century. Several settlements were abandoned in the medieval period and these form a valuable insight into life on Exmoor in medieval times - the best preserved is at Badgworthy.

More recently Exmoor has been the home to a number of major estates and `improving' families, who sought to better Exmoor's agriculture and infrastructure. Their influence is a constant presence in the modern landscape, in the architecture, roads, field patterns and settlements.

Three constant themes underpin Exmoor's archaeology and help to explain why the human landscape has developed in the ways it has. Firstly farming has always played and continues to play a central place on Exmoor. Secondly iron mining has been a major influence over the last 2000 years. Thirdly Exmoor's relationship with its coastline. This has been fundamental, both as an essential means of communication and trade, but also since the end of the 18th century as a tourist destination, which has helped to shape the coastal settlements and give them their unique character.

A feature of Exmoor's archaeology is its good preservation. This is in large part due to the lack of intensive agricultural improvement in the past.

CURRENT PROJECTS

Air Photography
Exmoor National Park Authority and English Heritage carry out a programme of air photography each year to record and monitor the condition of Exmoor's archaeological sites. The flying is carried out by English Heritage staff based in Swindon. Recent photographic targets include Timberscombe hillfort, Hawkcombe Head and Porlock Beach.

Monument Management Scheme
Exmoor National Park Authority and English Heritage work together to carry out conservation work on Exmoor's most vulnerable archaeological remains - from conserving crumbling medieval walling to re-erecting fallen standing stones. Recent work has included conservation at Barlynch Priory; consolidation of standing stones on Brendon Common and Cheriton Ridge; consolidation work at The Longstone.

Survey of Exmoor National Park Authority's own land
Exmoor National Park Authority has completed a baseline archaeological survey of its own estate. This survey underpins the management of National Park Authority owned land.

Exmoor Fieldschool
The Department of Archaeology at Bristol University and the Exmoor National Park Authority are carrying out an annual field school to introduce young people to the principles and practice of landscape archaeology (Bristol University course ref. C01-RCR). The project is based at Hawkcombe Head, near Porlock, Somerset, where human activity dates from the later Mesolithic period (c.8000-4000BC). The fieldschool aims to find out more about Mesolithic hunter-gatherer activity on the coastal fringes of Exmoor. In the past two seasons of excavation we have discovered thousands of flints on the site as well as hearths and the remains of possible structures. The fieldschool is funded by Bristol University’s Widening Participation Office, The Higher Education Funding Council for England and Exmoor National Park Authority.

Exmoor Iron
Exmoor National Park Authority is working with the University of Exeter and the National Trust to find, record and better understand the evidence for iron mining on Exmoor over the last 2000 years. In 2002/3 we have excavated the remains of a Roman iron smelting site near Brayford and uncovered several furnaces and a smithing floor. We have also carried out fieldwork at Roman Lode, Horner Wood, Clatworthy Reservoir and on sites in the Barle valley. In 2004 we will be excavating a post-Roman iron smelting site near Dulverton.

West Somerset Mineral Railway
The West Somerset Mineral Railway is Exmoor's most spectacular industrial monument. It was built in the 19th century to provide an artery along the Brendon Hills to the coast at Watchet in order to export iron ore to South Wales. A central part of the railway is The Incline - a one kilometre long, 1in 4 inclined plane - which conveyed ore wagons down the Brendon Hills escarpment. Exmoor National Park Authority has purchased The Incline and has carried out a major programme of works to conserve this evocative reminder of Exmoor's industrial past. In 2004 The Exmoor Society led a successful bid to the Heritage Lottery Fund to continue the programme of conservation and interpretation on the WSMR.

Porlock Beach
Coastal erosion has led to the exposure of areas of old land surface on Porlock Beach. The earliest remains there are of a submerged forest which is 5000-6000 years old. This was first observed in 1870, but is now disappearing rapidly. Nevertheless, tree stumps, branches and organic debris can still be seen at low tide. In 1998 the remains of an aurochs (the precursor of modern cattle) were found on the beach protruding from the recently exposed blue clays of an old river channel. This animal died about 3500 years ago and is therefore one of the last aurochs to be found in Britain (they died out here around 1000 BC). The bones are on display in the Porlock Visitor Centre. In 2003 more animal bones were discovered on the beach. In addition, a piece of worked timber found embedded in beach clay close to the breach in the shingle ridge has been dated to around 900AD – finds of timber from this period are very rare indeed. Coastal change at Porlock is rapidly eroding this fragile information about past landscapes, but is also providing exciting opportunities to learn more.