Exmoor has nearly 4000 known archaeological sites, and more discoveries are being made. These sites represent some 8000 years of human activity on Exmoor. Together they contribute to Exmoor's distinctiveness and provide a unique insight into how Exmoor has been shaped by human hands. They are a valuable, precious and irreplaceable part of Exmoor.
INTRODUCTION TO EXMOOR'S ARCHAEOLOGY
The earliest remains date from the late Mesolithic (8000-4000 BC), and comprise small flint implements called microliths. The first settled communities built a range of monuments and Exmoor is especially rich in prehistoric standing stones as well as nearly 400 burial mounds. Prehistoric hut circles and field systems can also be found on the moors. These sites form a remarkable group dating from the Neolithic (4000-2000BC) and Bronze Age (2000-700BC). The later prehistoric period is characterised by small settlements which archaeologists term `hillslope enclosures', and hillforts. Although none of these have been excavated they are thought to date from the Iron Age. Roman activity on Exmoor is represented by two fortlets on the coast at Old Burrow and Martinhoe, whilst Exmoor is ringed by Roman forts on its southern side. Recent work is showing that the Romans exploited Exmoor’s iron deposits as well.
The evidence for post-Roman Exmoor is several inscribed stones (the Culbone Stone and the Caractacus Stone on Winsford Hill for examples), some early Christian church dedications and some early place-names. Exmoor has three Norman castles one of which, Dunster, was rebuilt in stone. Two priories were founded in the medieval period at Dunster and Barlynch. The settlement pattern of farms, hamlets and villages was largely established by the end of the 13th century. Several settlements were abandoned in the medieval period and these form a valuable insight into life on Exmoor in medieval times - the best preserved is at Badgworthy.
More recently Exmoor has been the home to a number of major estates and `improving' families, who sought to better Exmoor's agriculture and infrastructure. Their influence is a constant presence in the modern landscape, in the architecture, roads, field patterns and settlements.
Three constant themes underpin Exmoor's archaeology and help to explain why the human landscape has developed in the ways it has. Firstly farming has always played and continues to play a central place on Exmoor. Secondly iron mining has been a major influence over the last 2000 years. Thirdly Exmoor's relationship with its coastline. This has been fundamental, both as an essential means of communication and trade, but also since the end of the 18th century as a tourist destination, which has helped to shape the coastal settlements and give them their unique character.
A feature of Exmoor's archaeology is its good preservation. This is in large part due to the lack of intensive agricultural improvement in the past.
South Common
Room Hill Fields
HISTORIC ENVIRONMENT RECORD
In May 2008 Exmoor National Park Authority appointed its first Historic Environment Record Officer to develop and organize information on all aspects of Exmoor’s past. Up until now the responsibility for the Historic Environment Record has lain with Somerset and Devon County Councils. During 2009 this responsibility will pass to Exmoor National Park Authority and thanks to substantial funding from English Heritage the Exmoor HER will be developed and put on line through Heritage Gateway.
CONSERVING SCHEDULED ANCIENT MONUMENTS
Exmoor has 205 Scheduled Ancient Monuments which represent some of Exmoor’s most important archaeological remains. Following a Scheduled Ancient Monuments At Risk survey carried out in 2004/5 we have been using our annual Monument Management Scheme, run jointly with English Heritage, to gradually bring Exmoor’s Scheduled Ancient Monuments into good or stable condition. We hope to have this work achieved during 2010. Recent work has involved clearing scrub from a number of hillforts including Oldberry Castle, Bury Castle and the enclosure at Longwood.
We also use air photography to monitor the condition and risks to Exmoor’s Scheduled Ancient Monuments and each year English Heritage’s aerial survey team fly sorties across Exmoor photographing selected sites.
In 2010 we will repeat our quinquennial Scheduled Ancient Monuments At Risk survey which acts as a baseline condition survey.
Clearing scrub from Oldberry hillfort near Dulverton
LOCAL LIST
In line with guidance from English Heritage we will be developing a local list of sites of archaeological and historic importance so that the way we prioritise our conservation work better reflects both the national and local importance of sites.
CURRENT PROJECTS
ENGLAND’S PAST FOR EVERYONE
This is a project to investigate the history of 12 parishes in southern Exmoor. The project has entailed detailed historical research and a range of volunteer projects to record farmsteads, deserted farmsteads and green lanes. Follow the link to find out more:
Volunteers working on the England’s Past for Everyone Project on Exmoor
NATIONAL MAPPING PROGRAMME
This project involves the comprehensive mapping of archaeological features across Exmoor using air photographs. It is being carried out as part of English Heritage's National Mapping Programme (NMP) and involves two project staff, employed by Exmoor National Park Authority with 100% funding from English Heritage. Every air photograph of Exmoor will be examined and archaeological features identified, analysed and interpreted. It is anticipated that NMP will double the number of archaeological sites known across Exmoor.
NMP is already adding to our knowledge of prehistoric settlement and farming on Exmoor. For instance, a previously unrecognised rectangular hillslope enclosure was recorded on Stoneditch Hill, just to the west of Combe Martin. Typical of Iron Age or Romano-British farmsteads from lowland areas of Britain, its uplands location is unusual for the environs of Exmoor.
The newly discovered late prehistoric enclosure on Stoneditch Hill
WEST SOMERSET MINERAL RAILWAY
In December 2007 work began on the conservation and interpretation of structures associated with the West Somerset Mineral Railway and the iron mining landscape of the Brendon Hills in eastern Exmoor. This work follows on from nearly four years of project planning and development and has been the subject of a grant of £603,000 from the Heritage Lottery Fund.
The project will lead to the conservation of three industrial structures which are central to the iron mining landscape of the WSMR. They comprise two major Scheduled Ancient Monuments (a ventilation chimney and an inclined plane) and an engine house. Physical access to these three sites will be created, as well as improvements to access arrangements in and around the harbour town of Watchet. The project also includes a range of interpretation initiatives: the development of a website, the publication of a detailed account of the railway and its associated mining landscape as well as a popular publication, improvements at Watchet Market House Museum, leaflets and guides as well as guidance and information for schools, and some on site interpretation. To achieve all of this, the project is being guided by a group of dedicated partners led by Exmoor National Park Authority – the partners include the Forestry Commission, Somerset County Council, West Somerset Council, Watchet Town Council, Watchet Market House Museum and English Heritage, as well as local groups including the Somerset Rural Youth Group and the Exmoor Mines Research Group; as well, there is the expertise of key individuals.
Miners at Timwood Adit
LARKBARROW 2008
In May 2008 archaeologists from Exmoor National Park Authority led a group of volunteers in an excavation to establish the date of prehistoric activity around the deserted Victorian farm at Larkbarrow. Flint had first been found here in the 1950s but more recently a number of flint flakes had been recovered on the moorland. The excavations have now confirmed that the site was in use in the Late Mesolithic period (8000-4000 BC) by hunter gatherers. The dig was visited by children from three local schools: Dulverton Middle School, St Michael’s School Tawstock, and Exford First School. Over 70 young people became archaeologists by excavating the Mesolithic site, watching an expert flint knapper, sampling the peat to study the evidence for past environments (with Heather Adams, University of Plymouth) and learning how to use air photographs to interpret how the landscape has changed.
Digging at Larkbarrow in May 2008
UNDERSTANDING EXMOOR’S PREHISTORIC PAST
Several universities are currently running projects examining aspects of Exmoor’s prehistoric past.
The University of Bristol is carrying out excavations with support from Exmoor National Park Authority at the Mesolithic site at Hawkcombe Head near Porlock. Recent fieldwork (July 2008) has focused on continuing the excavation of Mesolithic features first revealed in 2003.
The University of Plymouth is examining the evidence for past environments and environmental change with a project called ‘The Sustainable Management of Upland Valley Mires. This project, supported by Exmoor’s Sustainable Development Fund, will yield dates and environmental evidence for some of Exmoor’s ancient wetlands as well as establishing their condition.
The University of Exeter is developing a project to reveal more about the ancient landscape at and around Roman Lode near Simonsbath.
The University of Leicester is running a project to examine the development of the Neolithic and Bronze Age landscape on Exmoor. Fieldwork and excavation has been carried out on land owned by Exmoor National Park Authority at East Pinford and Tom’s Hill and is now underway at Lanacombe.
Topographic survey on a stone setting at Lanacombe
Porlock Beach
Coastal erosion has led to the exposure of areas of old land surface on Porlock Beach. The earliest remains there are of a submerged forest which is 5000-6000 years old. This was first observed in 1870, but is now disappearing rapidly. Nevertheless, tree stumps, branches and organic debris can still be seen at low tide. In 1998 the remains of an aurochs (the precursor of modern cattle) were found on the beach protruding from the recently exposed blue clays of an old river channel. This animal died about 3500 years ago and is therefore one of the last aurochs to be found in Britain (they died out here around 1000 BC). The bones are on display in the Porlock Visitor Centre. In 2003 more animal bones were discovered on the beach. In addition, a piece of worked timber found embedded in beach clay close to the breach in the shingle ridge has been dated to around 900AD – finds of timber from this period are very rare indeed. Coastal change at Porlock is rapidly eroding this fragile information about past landscapes, but is also providing exciting opportunities to learn more.
